Mexico City what can I say but I never got my head around this place. With a population of over 25 million it has more people squeezed into it than we do in the whole of Australia. I didn't ever quite get my bearings or understand where I was in the three days spent there - thank goodness for taxis and helpful hotel staff. I was also quickly reminded that I really know very little 'ancient history' and my lack of knowledge of Mesoamerica, Aztecs, Zapotecs and much more!
We went and explored Teotihuacan, probably better known as the sun and moon pyramids which were really quite phenomenal. The sun pyramid is the third highest pyramid in the world and how they built not only the two pyramids but the whole city, including the avenue of the dead is quite awe inspiring. We climbed both pyramids as well as some smaller sites (well I did) the steps were amazingly steep and as you are at altitude in Mexico City shortness of breath came very quickly.
It was one of those funny days where you go off on an organized tour thinking you are doing one thing and end up doing much more. This time we stopped at Basilica de Guadalupe which is the next most visited catholic site outside Vatican City, where apparently Our Lady appeared to a peasant around 1530 and his cloak bears the image of Our Lady. There was a group of pilgrims who had travelled across Mexico on motorbikes to visit and be blessed, once they come in the gates the very traditional pilgrims 'walk' on their knees to the shrine.
The history of Mexico it's revolutions and struggles in Mexico city are also a long way off my radar, I had no idea about the student uprising and deaths just weeks before the 1968 Olympics I have loads of reading to do!
We also jam packed in visits to the Frida Kahlo museum, markets, silver shopping and the anthropological museum (one of the best museums I've been in what they have on exhibition there is phenomenal) before Susan winged her way back to Australia and I set off to explore more of Mexico.
Oaxaca (pronounced wahaca) was a totally different pace, I loved it from. the moment I arrived so much so that I extended my stay there. I stayed at La Casa Mis Recerdos which was two blocks from San Domingo and all the action in the city. It didn't matter what time of day or night I went out there was acton yet tranquility, colour yet peace. History lessons again were in full swing as I learnt about the Zapotecs and Monte Alban, colonisation by the Spanish and their zealousness to convert the tribes,but instead wiped 90% of them out with disease.
Oaxaca is a colonial city, colorful and with some quite magnificent churches and buildings. For me San Domingo church with it's overly ornate internal decorations in gold was something else and the attached monastery, now the Oaxacan Cultural Museum, was just amazing. The treasures in the museum, especially artifacts they uncovered from tomb 7 at Monte Alban including an emerald encrusted skull made me wonder St the work of archeologists.
Oaxaca State is one of the poorest areas in Mexico and there are still about 14 traditional tribes in existence, many who now scrape together a living through selling traditional clothes, rugs, pottery, wood carvings to tourists. Tourism is really the main industry for Oaxaca City and due to the negative publicity about Mexico a the moment, is really suffering a downturn. Selfishly that was a great thing as there weren't too many people around.
Every time I went out on the street there was another parade, celebration, dancing display - mostly women involved in those - bike race, fun run whatever, the city comes to a standstill everything has a police escort and no one complains - it's just the way of life here.
I did the most amazing cooking Course with Nora from the Casa I was staying in. We went to the markets and bought things I'd nev heard or seen before then went back to her kitchen and prepared a four course meal of traditional Oaxacan food not so sure how much of it i'll be able to recreate but will give one or two of the dishes s shot.
I then flew from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido on the Mexican pacific coast. I could have opted for a ten hour bus ride through some pretty serious mountains thad they warn you to take nausea tablets for or the bald hour flight on a ten seated plane where we skirted the mountains to the coast. I was laughing just s little at the fact that people talked on their mobiles throughout the flight, including take off and landing and sets belts appeared to be an optional extra.
I had s really relaxing time in Puerto Escondido, a friend described it to me as Byron Bay 30 years ago and they weren't too far wrong. Surf, sun, lots of walking and relaxing and this is winter in Mexico. These crazy surfers jumped off the rocks to get to the waves they were after.
I again had great accommodation in Quinta Lilli run by s young brother and sister combination, they upgraded me to the penthouse room with stunning vies over the coastline, sunsets and s very relaxing atmosphere.
To everyone who encouraged me to go to Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido thank you, you were all right they were fantastic. From my first taste of Mexico I now have much more of Mexico to explore!!!!
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe Harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”. Mark Twain
Location:Mexico
